Kouign Amann aux Amandes and my “Bretagne Braid”

kouign-aman-amande
Individual Kouign Amann aux Amandes

end-of-french-braid
“Bretagne Braid”

These are my own version of Kouign Amann. Kouign Amann (which is pronounced “Queen Ah-mahn”) means butter cake in the Breton language. They are the mouthwatering, buttery, salty, caramelized, sweet pastry from Bretagne- the region of Brittany in France.
With the addition of a bit of marzipan and toasted almonds they become a heavenly cross between traditional  Kouign Amann and our favourite almond croissants. They become “Kouign Amann aux Amandes”. We think that they are the ultimate – the bomb- the “I’m having a transcendent moment here”  pastry!

when-french-women-cook

I first learned of Kouign Amann through reading  Madeleine Kamman’s lovely book, “When French Women Cook- A Gastronomique Memoir”, written in 1976. Her book takes you through the dishes of several regions of France represented by women she knew growing up there- friends, family and friends of the family-from 1934 to the 1970s.  I wish I could duplicate her journey but sadly those days and places are lost to the march of time and history. She hosted the PBS series “Madeleine Cooks” in the mid 1980s and has contributed much to the interest in and teaching of French Cooking in the USA. I am not using her recipe here, it is an amalgamation of several others I’ve read with my own tweaks added here and there.

I’ve also mentioned before that our favorite local place to buy these if you don’t make them yourself is Les Madeleines Bakery. They are exquisitely made there- lovely, gooey and caramelized. If you live in Salt Lake or are passing through do give them a try- they are worth the trip. Rick and I got addicted to them at Les Madeleines and I remembered seeing them in “When French Women Cook” and several other French cookbooks I own- so I started making them at home. *update- sadly Les Madeleines just closed as of December 30, 2022.

kaa-pan

Back to the pastry…laminating a not too rich dough (you can even start with plain white bread dough) with salted butter and sugar is the secret to making Kouign Amann. They are not difficult to do as long as you keep everything cold, chill between “turns” and are patient in your rolling.  They take a bit of time is what I am saying here- it is at least a two day process so make sure to plan ahead. 🙂 (BTW I have made a very good version using homemade quick puff pastry and laminating in sugar with a pinch of salt to make up for the unsalted butter in the puff pastry.)

A word about equipment first- you don’t need lots of special stuff to make these but I find these things helpful: a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook and also a paddle- a bowl, spoon and elbow grease will do if you don’t have one;  a flexible straight sided ruler 18″ to 24 ” is very helpful -I have a flat plastic graphics ruler that I have marked with black marker at 8″, 12″, 18″ and 24″ increments;  a soft pastry brush; a large French style rolling pin; Entremet rings, a muffin pan and or English muffin rings, a flan ring if making a large version and heavy duty baking sheets lined with parchment or Silpats, plus a sharp knife or pastry roller cutter.

*December 2022, Please note I used to enclose sugar in the lamination process but have updated the recipe to delete that step as it can make a sticky mess where the dough weeps. I now just roll it out on sugar at the end and sprinkle more sugar on top before sizing and enclosing the pastries. They are still delicious!

kadough
Risen Dough

first-turn
First and Third Turns Marked
third-turn

Kouign Amann aux Amandes

  • 1 package active dried yeast = (1/4 ounce) or  1 level Tablespoon of instant yeast
  • 1-3/4 cups warm water about 105F
  • 1 large pinch of granulated sugar, plus a 1/2 Cup more for rolling and a bit more for topping the pastries
  • 1/4 cup Demerara sugar or raw sugar for rolling and a bit more topping
  • 5 -6 cups of all purpose flour (start with 5 add the other if needed -see below)
  • 1-1/2 teaspoons sea salt, plus another  pinch  for the topping
  • 1/8 cup melted butter, cooled
  • 1 pound best quality SALTED butter, cold (or use unsalted and mix in a little fleur de sel when forming the block)
  • 7 ounces best quality home made or prepared marzipan
  • slivered almonds- to top -about 1/3 cup total

Mix the yeast, warm water and a pinch of sugar together and let stand until foamy- a few minutes. Place the flour, salt and melted butter in the bowl of the stand mixer fitted with a dough hook and mix together, add the yeast mixture and mix until a smooth dough forms and begins to pull away from the sides of the bowl. This should only take a few minutes.  If you don’t have a stand mixer, use a bowl and a wooden spoon and then turn out to knead on a lightly floured counter until a smooth dough forms. Place the dough in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm place to rise to double- about an hour.  When doubled, punch down and chill for about an hour, meanwhile get the the butter block  ready.

Place the cold butter in the clean bowl of your stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment this time, or beat it with a rolling pin between two pieces of parchment paper until it is pliable but still cool. Form this into an  8″ square block (about 1/2″ thick) and cover with parchment or plastic wrap and place on a tray in your fridge to chill. Chill for 30 minutes.  So the dough will have been in the fridge for about one hour and 35 minutes and the butter block that was already cool has joined it in for about 30 minutes. This will make them approximately the same temperature.

Remove the dough from the fridge and roll it into a uniform 18″ square with the center a bit thicker than the edges. Remove the butter block from the fridge and place it kitty or catre-cornered on the dough square- in other words have the corners of the butter point at the center of the sides of the square.  Fold the corners of the dough over the butter to overlap on top and pinch to seal. Roll out to a 24″ by 8″ rectangle – use your ruler to keep the dough straight and squared off, then brush off any flour with a pastry brush. Fold the right edge over the middle third of the dough and the left edge over the whole right side edge you just folded over (as if you were folding a towel or book into thirds, so the 24″ becomes 8″ and the 8″ stays the same dimension.)  Dimple the dough with your finger once to mark this as your first “turn”. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and place on a baking tray that will fit in your fridge and chill for 30 minutes.  Remove and repeat the rolling and folding but roll the opposite way so the 8″ side of your folded “towel or book”  will become 24″ and the other side will become 8″ when rolled( that’s why it’s called a turn- you are turning the dough package to roll and fold the opposite direction from the previous way.  Fold again the same as above, brushing off excess flour and folding, and marking two dimples for the second turn. Repeat 2 more times but chill an hour between these turns. When you have completed 4 turns in total (of course chilling between) wrap and chill the dough overnight or for at least 6 hours. 

The next morning….

Place 1/4 Cup of the granulated sugar and 1/8 cup of the Demerara sugar on your rolling surface and roll the dough out to 24″ x 18″, top with remaining 1/4 Cup of granulated, and 1/8 Cup of Demerara sugars and press lightly to adhere, cut to the desired size- (I usually make twelve 4″x 4″ Kouign Amann and one larger sized pastry with the remainder of the dough.) If you make all 4″ x4″ you’ll get 24 pastries that size. Knead the marzipan and place in the center of whatever shape you choose, fold the edges over to meet in the center and pinch to seal. Top each pastry with a sprinkling more of each kind of sugar mixed with a tiny pinch of salt and some slivered almonds. Place each pastry into well buttered  Entremet rings, a muffin pan or English muffin rings on a parchment or Silpat lined heavy sheet pan or even a jumbo muffin pan for the 4×4″ size and use a flan ring for the larger size .To make a “Bretagne Braid ” such as the one shown here – make a rectangle and put the marzipan lengthwise down the middle, cut in from the long sides towards the filling  at 1/2″ even, intervals and alternate bringing the side strips over the filling to make a braided pattern, turn under the ends and pinch to seal, place on a parchment or Silpat lined baking sheet, cover the pastry with plastic wrap and (proof) place in warm place until slightly puffed- about 30 to 40 minutes. Preheat your oven to 400F. Bake in the preheated oven for about 45 minutes, rotating the trays about halfway through and bake until golden, and puffed.  Remove to a cooling tray immediately.

They are good warm or cool but they do stale quickly so eat them or share them the same day- although we have nibbled them for up to four days they lose their stellar quality. I have frozen some, un-topped, at the pre-proofed stage to pull them out proof them, top them and bake them as needed.

kaa-proff-clu
Proofing individual and large sized pastries

large-kouign-amann-proofing

kaa-closeup
Finished Pastries

breton-braid-and-kaa

They make an awfully good breakfast!

ka-brekkie2

kaa-brekkie-cu

Wow that was a long one! Hope you enjoyed the journey.

xo

“I like chips and egg …on a TUESDAY…” Shirley Valentine at Dinner and a Movie

canecu

This months choice for Dinner and a Movie hosted by Susan of Sticky, Gooey, Creamy, Chewy and Marc of No Recipes  is one of my all time favorite movies- “Shirley Valentine.”

This first came out in 1989 (really? 20 years ago?.. where DID the time go!?..yikes… eeek!!!) I was in my 20s when I first saw it and now I’m closer to Shirley’s age. But its message  is timeless. Altogether, I’ve probably watched it about 40 times since I first saw it in the theatre. I know most of the dialogue by heart and quote from it fairly often:

” I like chips and egg ..on a TUESDAY – today is THURSDAY… Where’s me steak?!”

 “I enjoy a glass of wine while I’m preparing the evening meal-don’t I wall?” 

“He’s not bad, my fella- he’s just no bleedin’ good!”

“She’s that type Gillian, – I’m not saying she’s a braggart but if you’ve got a headache- she’s got a brain tumor- if you’ve been to paradise- she’s got a season ticket!’

shirley-valentine2

This is a feel good movie about reclaiming your inner girl when you’ve turned into “The Wife” or “The Mother” and most of all about bravely choosing a new path when the one you are on doesn’t suit anymore. Full of quirky British humor and the beautiful scenes of Mykonos in Greece -it’ s a holiday you won’t want to return from either. Pauline Collins, Tom Conti, Bernard Hill, Julia McKenzie, Alison Steadman and Joanne Lumley are a stellar, lovable, brilliant cast.

* Updated* One thing that is funny is that it took a while for this movie to come to DVD in the USA (I was on the Amazon waitlist forever and about wore my VHS copy out) and they put both an UK audio track and an USA audio track. I could find  only 5 times where it is different- watch the UK version and see if you can catch them- I’ll send a nice prize to the first person who emails me (or leaves a comment here) with at least 3 of the correct changes.

“Chips and egg” appear several times throughout the movie -in Britain as a pivotal meal that seals Shirley’s determination to take advantage of a windfall trip to Greece and then later in Greece she meets “Dougie and Jeannette” and says: “They’re that type you know- if they’d been at the Last Supper they’d have asked for chips and egg.”  After she decides to stay in Greece she offers to cook chips and egg for xenophobic British travelers at Costa’s bar who are too afraid to try any lovely Greek offerings such as Kleftika.

lemon balm and oregano in the gardenoregano-in-the-garden

For my version I  baked sweet potato chips and added a “gremolata” of fresh oregano, shallot, garlic, salt and Feta cheese- just to pull Britain a bit closer to Mykonos.  I used fresh Oregano from my garden- don’t use dry if you can’t find fresh-skip it or change to a real gremolata with parsley. Alexia is a good brand of pre-made sweet potato chips or simply cut some sweet potatoes into batons and toss with a bit of olive oil, salt and pepper and bake for about 30 minutes at 400F, turning often and finishing off under the broiler for crispness.

rickschipsandegg

I made scrambled eggs with Feta for Rick as he doesn’t like fried eggs- but I had mine over-medium- fried in one of my favorite Griswold cast iron skillets. They, along with the chips, some chile sauce and a couple of Rick’s homemade cream biscuits, made a divine meal.

egg

Oregano “Gremolata”

  • 1/4 cup fresh, washed Oregano
  • 1 large shallot
  • a few grindings of garlic salt and pepper
  • crumbled Feta cheese

Mince the Oregano and Shallot together finely, add the salt, pepper and Feta and toss over the chips and egg.

chipsandeggplate

Opa! Wow! Check out all the other great Greek offerings from the Dinner and a Movie crowd at Susan’s roundup here!

xo

Happy Birthday Dear Rick!

cupcake

hbrick

Rick’s birthday was this weekend! Hippity, Happity Birthday- tumm-diddly- um …my love! Frankly, he is the best gift I have ever received -so we both win. 🙂

We are scaling back around our house a bit -as the company Rick was working for closed last Wednesday and my company is also cutting back. We are trying to see this as an opportunity to change our horizons rather than as a tragedy. Rick is such a multi-talented guy that there are many things he can do – he just has to choose  a new direction.  As long as we’re together we’ll be fine.

For his birthday cake this year, he couldn’t decide between Favorite Fudge Cake with Fudge Frosting or with Sour Cream Frosting- so I compromised and made a six inch cake with fudgy frosting and cupcakes with sour cream frosting. The sour cream ones need to stay in the fridge (so they don’t melt all over the place) and so cuppies are easier to deal with fridge space-wise.

This time, I also added a pinch of cloves, a twidge of cinnamon and some espresso to the cake to spice up the flavor a bit. Still a winner- still our fav cake – we can’t ever seem to choose another when it comes right down to it.

rickcake

Gabi’s Favorite Fudge Cake, makes one 9 inch -two layer cake or two 6 inch layer cakes -can be doubled.

  • 3 ounces unsweetened chocolate, melted and cooled
  • 2 Cups sifted all purpose flour (plus more for pans)
  • 2 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoons salt
  • 2 Tablespoons cocoa powder, sifted for lumps
  • 1/2 Cup (1/4lb) butter, softened to room temperature (plus more for pans)
  • 2-1/4 Cups light brown sugar, firmly packed
  • 3 eggs, room temperature
  • 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
  • 1  Cup sour cream
  • 1  Cup boiling water
  • (optional: add 2 Tablespoons instant espresso powder to the boiling water)
  • (optional: add 1 pinch ground cloves and 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon to the dry ingredients)

Preheat oven to 350F.
Butter and lightly flour two 9inch round cake pans, place a parchment circle that has been cut to fit the bottom
in each round and butter and flour the parchment.
Sift flour, soda, salt and cocoa together in small bowl. In the bowl of a stand mixer with the paddle attachment,
or in a large bowl with a hand mixer, beat butter until soft. Add brown sugar and eggs and beat at high speed
until light and fluffy, approximately 3 minutes. Beat in vanilla and melted, cooled chocolate. Stir in dry ingredients
alternately with sour cream, beating slowly but well until incorporated after each addition. Add boiling water and
stir until batter is evenly thin. Pour at once into prepared pans and bake at 350F for 35 minutes or until
top springs back when lightly touched. Cool in pans 5 minutes on wire racks and then run a straight spatula
around the sides and remove to rack, paper side down, to cool completely, then frost.

Chocolate Fudge Frosting

  • 4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
  • 1/2 Cup (1/4Lb) Butter
  • 1 pound confectioner’s sugar
  • 1/2 Cup whole milk or half/half
  • 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
  • 3 drops almond extract

Heat chocolate and butter in a small saucepan over low heat until barely melted, stir often. Remove from heat. Combine confectioner’s sugar, milk or half/half, and extracts in a stand mixer with the whip attachment, blend well.
Add chocolate/butter mixture and beat until it starts to hold some shape. It will be thin at first and firm up as it cools.

Makes enough to frost tops and sides of two 9-inch layers or four 6-inch layers.

cuppie

Sour Cream Frosting

  • 1/2 cup softened butter
  • 1/2 cup sour cream
  • 1 pound confectioner’s sugar
  • 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

Beat butter until creamy add the sour cream, sugar and vanilla extract. Whip until spreadable consistency. This frosting is airily soft. Frosted cakes must be kept refrigerated.

I also made another Favorite Fudge cake for my fairy goddaughter, Tessa’s,  wedding anniversary on May 4th. I didn’t add the optional espresso or spices because she and her hubby Jared aren’t coffee drinkers and I didn’t add it to their wedding cakes when I made them two years ago. So Tessa- here is the recipe and come any time and we’ll make some cakes together. 🙂

xo