Proud Mama of a new Peach Tree

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We had an old peach tree in our garden-I don’t know what variety-it must have been decades old. It had the most delicious free-stone peaches ever. I think the poor tree died from old age. It gave out gradually so that at the end only one small branch was producing. I admit it- I cried when it gave its last gasp. Rick was kind enough to make me a curving beautiful hand carved “wand” from its wood and some of the trunk remains in the garden- a sort of organic marker of times past.

In thinking what I wanted to plant in its place, I considered a pie cherry. You know of course what a fiend I am for tart pie cherries so it would be a good choice. But in the end I longed for a peach tree where it had always been- framed at the end of our pergola- bridal in springtime and gracing us with peaches for Rick’s favorite peach pie in late Summer.

Several years ago, Saturn (or donut)peaches began to appear in the gourmet market- at first they were luscious, sweet and juicy -the height of peachy-ness. Then commercial greed caught on and “The Market” took hold and now we notice that they are picked green. Hello?!- you can’t pick peaches green and expect them to taste good- they do not continue to convert sugar and ripen once they are picked. So you might get good looking large donut peaches this way but they are tasteless. So we’ve ceased to buy them- I pick them up at the grocery and smell- if a peach doesn’t smell like a peach in the market don’t buy it – you’re wasting your money.

We decide to plant a dwarf Stark Bros. Saturn Peach, the wee little tree had several half dollar sized peaches on it when we snagged it at the nursery. I didn’t want to lose them by planting the peach until they were harvested so we’ve waited until fall to plant and lately have been plucking little jewels of juicy peach goodness- literal treasure that grows on trees.  In a few weeks when it’s a bit cooler and the tree has recovered from harvest.  We’ll plant her and let her set her roots before Winter comes. Hopefully next year we’ll have a whole new crop and a lovely peach tree to hold court in our garden.

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Add Some Zest to Your Cherry Pie!

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Sorry not the best picture- but this is what happens when you cut a cherry pie before it has cooled. What happened is, well, -you know… the smell drives you crazy whilst it’s baking and you just can’t wait- so you eat it hot. If it’s made of nice juicy pie cherries like these you’ll end up with a bit of a pool under some lovely flaky pastry. All in all not so bad. Any way it’s served this is one of my favorite pies!

One of the tricks I’ve learned with cherry pie is to add a bit of lemon juice and zest. You’d think you might not want to make the tart cherries any tarter but really the lemon  just rounds out the flavor nicely- making the cherries a bit cheerier if you know what I mean 🙂

I always use all butter for my pastry. My Gran used Crisco but this is one area where I have moved on. I’m not a fan of trans-fats and I don’t like that greasy feel you get on the roof of your mouth with shortening too much. I’m a butter girl- through and through. What may be slightly sacrificed in workability is more than amply made up in taste.

All Butter Pastry- makes a double crust pie or two singles

  • 2-1/2 cups all purpose unbleached flour
  • pinch of salt
  • large pinch of sugar
  • 1 cup unsalted cold, cold butter cut into pieces
  • 1/2 cup of iced water

Mix the flour, salt and sugar together, cut the butter in. Then rub the flour/butter in one direction only between your cold hands- one time. Add the water and stir to make a shaggy dough that only holds together a bit. Place a piece of plastic wrap on the counter and turn the dough out onto it. Press together into a disk and chill for about a half hour. It is ready to use then or can be frozen for future use.

Cherry Pie

  • 6 cups pitted sugared pie cherries, (can use frozen- slightly thaw before mixing)
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 1/2 teaspoon almond extract
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
  • the zest of one lemon, finely minced
  • 1/4 cup cornstarch
  • 2 Tablespoons unsalted butter chilled and cut into bits

Mix all of the ingredients together in a bowl. Stir well to distribute evenly. Pour into a deep dish pie plate lined with 2/3 recipe of the all butter crust rolled out and trimmed to a bit proud of the rim, dot the top with bits of butter. Roll the remaining 1/3 out to a rectangle and cut into strips the size you like. Weave the strips to make a lattice on top. Seal and crimp the edges. Place the pie plate on a baking tray lined with aluminum foil to catch any overflowing juice. Place into a preheated 400F oven for 20 minutes. Rotate the pan front to back top to bottom and reduce the heat of the oven to 375F, bake for another 50 minutes to an hour or until the crust is golden brown and the juices are bubbling thickly where you can see them. Ideally cool for 2 hours before cutting. Or if you can’t wait -just use a spoon to deal with the juice.  🙂

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Hope you enjoy!

Pierre Herme’s Chocolate Eclairs are a “Choux In” for the Daring Bakers!

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It’s that time again and I’m just getting my post up for today’s reveal of this month’s Daring Bakers’ Challenge. This month our hosts are the lovely and talented Meeta of “What’s for Lunch, Honey?” and Tony of Olive Juice. The recipe is Chocolate Eclairs by Pierre Herme and consists of three elements: a choux pastry, a pastry cream and a glaze. At least one of the non-choux elements was required to be chocolate. I chose to make chocolate pastry cream and top my eclairs with an espresso/chocolate glaze.  For my glaze I just mixed a shot of espresso with 1/2 cup of confectioner’s sugar and about 4 buttons of dark Guittard Chocolate. I used Callebaut Bittersweet for the chocolate in my pastry cream. Otherwise I followed the recipe below.

I couldn’t resist making some small swan puffs. I’ve had a love affair with eclairs most of my life- they were some of the first “exotic” foods I ever explored and I remember making eclairs at about age eight with a little help from, my then stepmother, the lovely Virginia. I came across a picture of a cream puff swan in “Cosmopolitan” magazine when I was about 14 and so then started making them for parties fairly often. They are a fun addition when you are making eclairs. Just pipe some little bodies with a swish of a tail, use a smaller tip to make necks/heads and then cut the top third off the puff and split for wings which you stick back in at an angle. A little sprinkling of powdered sugar is pretty too. I like a bit of choc on the beaks and an eye as well. 🙂

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I also must admit that I only made 4 eclairs and 3 swans out of this recipe. I turned the rest of the choux into gougeres by adding some cheese and a bit of pesto and they are in my freezer waiting for the odd cocktail hour. Choux dough is very versatile.

Here’s the challenge recipe and notes from Meeta and Tony:

Pierre Herme’s Chocolate eclairs
Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Herme
(makes 20-24 eclairs)

Cream Puff Dough (see below for recipe), fresh and still warm

1) Preheat your oven to 375 degrees F (190 degrees C). Divide the oven into thirds by
positioning the racks in the upper and lower half of the oven. Line two baking sheets with
waxed or parchment paper.

2) Fill a large pastry bag fitted with a 2/3 (2cm) plain tip nozzle with the warm cream puff dough.
Pipe the dough onto the baking sheets in long, 4 to 41/2 inches (about 11 cm) chubby fingers.
Leave about 2 inches (5 cm) space in between each dough strip to allow them room to puff.
The dough should give you enough to pipe 20-24 eclairs.

3) Slide both the baking sheets into the oven and bake for 7 minutes. After the 7 minutes, slip the
handle of a wooden spoon into the door to keep in ajar. When the eclairs have been in the
oven for a total of 12 minutes, rotate the sheets top to bottom and front to back. Continue
baking for a further 8 minutes or until the eclairs are puffed, golden and firm. The total baking
time should be approximately 20 minutes.

Notes:
1) The eclairs can be kept in a cool, dry place for several hours before filling.

Assembling the eclairs:

Chocolate glaze (see below for recipe)
Chocolate pastry cream (see below for recipe)

1) Slice the eclairs horizontally, using a serrated knife and a gently sawing motion. Set aside the
bottoms and place the tops on a rack over a piece of parchment paper.

2) The glaze should be barely warm to the touch (between 95 and 104 degrees F or 35 and“ 40
degrees C, as measured on an instant read thermometer). Spread the glaze over the tops of
the eclairs using a metal icing spatula. Allow the tops to set and in the meantime fill the
bottoms with the pastry cream.

3) Pipe or spoon the pastry cream into the bottoms of the eclairs. Make sure you fill the bottoms
with enough cream to mound above the pastry. Place the glazed tops onto the pastry cream
and wriggle gently to settle them.

Notes:
1) If you have chilled your chocolate glaze, reheat by placing it in a bowl over simmering water,
stirring it gently with a wooden spoon. Do not stir too vigorously as you do not want to create
bubbles.

2) The eclairs should be served as soon as they have been filled.

Pierre Herme’s Cream Puff Dough
Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Herme
(makes 20-24 eclairs)

½ cup (125g) whole milk
½ cup (125g) water
1 stick (4 ounces; 115g) unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces
¼ teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon salt
1 cup (140g) all-purpose flour
5 large eggs, at room temperature

1) In a heavy bottomed medium saucepan, bring the milk, water, butter, sugar and salt to the
boil.

2) Once the mixture is at a rolling boil, add all of the flour at once, reduce the heat to medium
and start to stir the mixture vigorously with a wooden spoon. The dough comes together very
quickly. Do not worry if a slight crust forms at the bottom of the pan, it’s supposed to. You
need to carry on stirring for a further 2-3 minutes to dry the dough. After this time the dough
will be very soft and smooth.

3) Transfer the dough into a bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, or using your
hand-mixer or if you still have the energy, continue by hand. Add the eggs one at a time,
beating after each egg has been added to incorporate it into the dough.
You will notice that after you have added the first egg, the dough will separate, once again do
not worry. As you keep working the dough, it will come back all together again by the time you
have added the third egg. In the end the dough should be thick and shiny and when lifted it
should fall back into the bowl in a ribbon.

4) The dough should be still warm. It is now ready to be used for the eclairs as directed above.

Notes:
1) Once the dough is made you need to shape it immediately.

2) You can pipe the dough and the freeze it. Simply pipe the dough onto parchment-lined baking
sheets and slide the sheets into the freezer. Once the dough is completely frozen, transfer the
piped shapes into freezer bags. They can be kept in the freezer for up to a month.

Chocolate Pastry Cream
Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Herme

2 cups (500g) whole milk
4 large egg yolks
6 tbsp (75g) sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch, sifted
7 oz (200g) bittersweet chocolate, preferably Valrhona Guanaja, melted
½ tbsp (1¼ oz: 40g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1) In a small saucepan, bring the milk to a boil.  In the meantime, combine the yolks, sugar and cornstarch together and whisk in a heavy bottomed saucepan.

2) Once the milk has reached a boil, temper the yolks by whisking a couple spoonsful of the hot milk into the yolk mixture. Continue whisking and slowly pour the rest of the milk into the tempered yolk mixture.

3) Strain the mixture back into the saucepan to remove any egg that may have scrambled.   Place the pan over medium heat and whisk vigorously (without stop) until the mixture returns to a boil. Keep whisking vigorously for 1 to 2 more minutes (still over medium heat).Stir in the melted chocolate and then remove the pan from the heat.

4) Scrape the pastry cream into a small bowl and set it in an ice water bath to stop the cooking process. Make sure to continue stirring the mixture at this point so that it   remains smooth.

5) Once the cream has reached a temperature of 140 F remove from the ice water bath and stir in the butter in three or four installments. Return the cream to the ice water bath to continue cooling, stirring occasionally, until it has completely cooled. The cream is now ready to use or store in the fridge.

Notes:
1) The pastry cream can be made 2-3 days in advance and stored in the refrigerator.

2) In order to avoid a skin forming on the pastry cream, cover with plastic wrap pressed onto the cream.

3) Tempering the eggs raises the temperature of the eggs slowly so that they do not scramble.

Chocolate Glaze
Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Herme
(makes 1 cup or 300g)

1/3 cup (80g) heavy cream
3½ oz (100g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
4 tsp (20 g) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces, at room temperature
7 tbsp (110 g) Chocolate Sauce (recipe below), warm or at room temperature

1)In a small saucepan, bring the heavy cream to a boil. Remove from the heat and slowly begin to add the chocolate, stirring with a wooden spoon or spatula.

2) Stirring gently, stir in the butter, piece by piece followed by the chocolate sauce.

Notes:
1) If the chocolate glaze is too cool (i.e. not liquid enough) you may heat it briefly in the microwave or over a double boiler. A double boiler is basically a bowl sitting over (not touching) simmering water.

2) It is best to glaze the eclairs after the glaze is made, but if you are pressed for time, you can make the glaze a couple days ahead of time, store it in the fridge and bring it up to the proper temperature (95 to 104  F) when ready to glaze.

Chocolate Sauce
Recipe from Chocolate Desserts by Pierre Herme
(makes 1½ cups or 525 g)

4½ oz (130 g) bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
1 cup (250 g) water
½ cup (125 g) crème fraiche, or heavy cream
1/3 cup (70 g) sugar

1) Place all the ingredients into a heavy bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil, making sure to stir constantly. Then reduce the heat  to low and continue stirring with a wooden spoon until the sauce thickens.

2) It may take 10 to 15 minutes for the sauce to thicken, but you will know when it is done when it coats the back of your spoon.

Notes:
1) You can make this sauce ahead of time and store it in the refrigerator for two weeks. Reheat the sauce in a microwave oven or  a double boiler before using.
2) This sauce is also great for cakes, ice-cream and tarts.

Thanks for visiting- you can see all the other Daring Bakers’ amazing eclairs here!

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Enjoy! xo